Bali, Indonesia

Bali is a small island located in Indonesia

After a few days of falling in love with Kuala Lumpur, Emiliya and I headed south of the equator to Bali, Indonesia. My major bucket list item for Indonesia was the Gili Islands, which are located east of Bali, so it seemed necessary to at least take a few days to explore the much-loved island of Bali along the way. Bali got it's claim to fame after Elizabeth Gilbert's Eat, Pray, Love hit the shelves in 2006. The book tells the true story of Elizabeth Gilbert as she travels the world in search of herself after recently ending her marriage, along the way she stops in Italy, India and ends her year of travel in Bali, Indonesia. Known for it's "soul-searching" aspect, Bali is home to yoga retreats, medicine men and is rumored to have more temples than homes. Gilbert finds true happiness and love while in Bali, and as a result there has been a huge increase in travel to this part of the world ever since her book hit the New York Time's best seller list. A typical trip to Bali usually includes yoga retreats, temple visits and general detox from the world.

Front entrance to our hostel

I, however, had different plans for my quick visit to Bali. I've never found myself to be much of a spiritual person, and personally I don't feel that I need to do any soul searching. For me, Bali was a nice vacation lounging by the pool and enjoying delicious (and cheap) food. With no real plans it was easy to just relax and talk to the other backpackers and travelers staying at our hostel. Each day we took to the streets, strolling along in search of cute boutiques, souvenirs and gelato. Our hostel itself was an awesome experience to be a part of. It reminded me much more of a resort as opposed to a hostel and the area took up a large portion of land with many different buildings. There were hammocks hung up in the shade, koi ponds filled with fish, bamboo huts for taking naps, bookshelves everywhere, and plenty of rooms for sleeping.

The pool area of our hostel

Talking with some of the other travelers at our hostel, it became evident that a trip to Bali isn't complete without a trek to the top of Mt. Batur for sunrise, so without even questioning it we quickly found ourselves handing over $23 and agreeing to a 2am pickup for the next morning. Mt. Batur is an active volcano located on the island of Bali and it has an amazing overlook to a lake and other mountains. Everyone was right when they said it's a popular thing to do in Bali, from our hostel alone we had 9 people going, and our entire hike up the mountain you could look down in the dark and see a steady stream of hikers lighting their way with flashlights. The day before our hike there were numerous people complaining about their sore muscles and sleeping away their exhaustion, so I built it up in my head as a pretty challenging endeavor. Fortunately my mind played tricks on me and the reality of the hike wasn't nearly as bad as I had feared. The two hour hike was in no way easy, but it helped that it was still the middle of the night when we started the climb, so the chilly mountain air felt refreshing as we hauled ourselves up. While waiting for the sunrise we got a filling breakfast and got time to talk with our fellow hikers and then we all watched together as the sun slowly peeked through the clouds and lit up the lake below us. It was definitely a site worth seeing and I would advise it to anyone who finds themselves in Bali!

Sunrise from the top of Mt. Batu 

On our way back to the hostel we all fell asleep within minutes of leaving the parking lot, only to be woken up 30 minutes later when we arrived at a coffee plantation. We were all exhausted, but the promise of free coffee was enough to get us out of the car. Bali is famous for their coffee plantations, and no one seems to know just how many there are, instead they just know that there are a lot. We got a quick tour of the area and saw how the coffee beans are grown, and then we got to sit down for a sample of five coffees and two teas. I'm proud to say that after 24 years on this earth I have finally found a tea that I like! Lemongrass tea! Lemongrass is an ingredient used all over Asia, especially in Thailand, and it's a scent that I quickly fell in love with, but I never thought to try the tea. I found my way to the tiny shop at the coffee plantation to buy myself some lemongrass tea to take home, and I hope I'll be able to find more once I finish my first batch.

Coffee and tea sampling at the coffee plantation

Cloudy sites as we made our way down the volcano

After our eventful morning of trekking and coffee sampling we made it back to our hostel where I took the deepest nap I've ever experienced. Three hours of sleep followed by way too much physical activity leaves me pretty useless. We spent the rest of our day swimming and eating and then settled in for our last night in Bali. Next up: Gili Islands!

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Logistical Info

- We stayed at In Da Lodge Hostel for $9/night. It's in a good location in Ubud and is a very popular hostel for the area.

- Ubud is located about an hour from the Bali airport and a taxi ride was around $30 one way.

- Meals and living are very cheap in Indonesia. A meal including appetizers and drinks is usually only around $5.

- Most hostels and hotels are in touch with tour companies for Mt. Batur and they'll include pick-up and drop-off at your accommodations. The tour is $23 and includes transportation, numerous guides on the hike (in case your group gets split up due to speed), breakfast, entrance and sampling at the coffee plantation.
- We booked our transportation to Gili Islands from our hostel. It was $45 for a roundtrip van (to the ferry docks) and ferry ride. The return can be to your previous residence in Bali, or somewhere else on the island.

Paradise on Gili Air

Eating lunch on pillows at the edge of the ocean
The mountains in the background are from neighboring islands

We often saw storm clouds in the distance, but nothing
ever went over Gili Air

An hour east of Bali are the three Gili islands. Gili, means small island in the local language, and that's exactly what these islands are. Stunning photos of these islands have crept their way into my life over the last few years, and before I even knew exactly where the Gili islands were I knew I needed to get there eventually. Since living in Asia I've learned of countries I've never even heard of, and it's been really cool to see what the locals casually talk about in terms of geography. They may not be able to point out New York on a map, but of course everyone in Asia has heard of the Gili islands! Talking with the locals has given us great vacation locations that I never would've found on my own.
After talking with some other travelers it seemed that Gili Trawangan is the most popular (and largest) of these three islands, it's the classic backpacker scene filled with bars and hostels on the beaches. However, I've already had my fair share of backpacker scene, and instead Emiliya and I decided to splurge on a bungalow on the smaller and quieter island of Gili Air. Now when I say "splurge" I mean $40 a night for a poolside bungalow, walking distance from the beach. Gotta love Asia!

Poolside view from our bungalow

We booked four nights at Gili Air Bungalows and enjoyed our long weekend of swimming and eating our way around the island. Gili Air is still pretty off the grid in comparison to other Asian countries, they just got their only ATM last year. There are no cars on the island, only horse-drawn carriages and a handful of electric bikes driven by the locals. The roads aren't paved, instead they're a mix of sand and dirt roads.

Indonesia has been very vegetarian
friendly. Veggie burger on the beach! 

It's been so refreshing to spend time on this little island with absolutely no plans. Each morning we wake up to a delicious and huge breakfast from our hotel and then we spend the morning swimming in the pool and relaxing in the sun with our books. From there we eventually head out to the main strip and find a new restaurant for lunch, soaking in the ocean views while we eat. It's rumored to only take about an hour to walk around the entire island, but we've mainly stuck to the main areas near the ferry dock because we can find all we need in that area. There are plenty of opportunities to rent snorkels or going on diving trips, there are kayaks to rent and stand up paddle boards; it's a water lover's dream!

Dirt roads and horse drawn carriages 

I think this is my first vacation in a while where I've spent more time talking with the locals as opposed to meeting other travelers, and I love it. Everywhere we go the waitstaff are so eager to talk with us, Emiliya is always getting complemented on her Armenian looks and people are always so amused by my curly hair. They want to know where we're from, where we're going next, and what we've seen in the world. We have yet to meet anyone that is specifically from Gili Air, it seems instead more people relocate to this island from nearby areas; but even if they've only lived and worked on this island for a few months they're always so proud of their new home and are eager to hear our praises about our stay.

Getting in my daily chocolate fix
with triple chocolate mousse

Southeast Asia is known for being a cheap place to vacation, and Thailand itself was a very cheap place to live. However, when it comes to touristy areas it's common to find higher prices and after a day site seeing in Thailand it's easy to find yourself spending much more money than you were planning. Indonesia has been the first place where I can truly splurge on whatever I want and not be startled with how much I'm spending. Even with eating out for every meal I've never spent more than $6 at a restaurant, and that includes drinks and appetizers. A "day out" for us on Gili Air would include both meals eaten in a restaurant, an afternoon stop for coffee, maybe some gelato, and purchasing a few souvenirs. Doing all of that in either Gili Air or in Bali would never total more than $15. The only place where I've been losing money in Indonesia is on the transportation. An hour taxi ride from the Bali airport was $30, which is good compared to the States or Europe, but compared to other Asian countries it's more than double. Ferries are also very expensive, my roundtrip ticket from Bali to Gili was $45, but expensive ferry tickets seems to be a common thing for all Asian islands.
While traveling around to more than one location the thought of my next city is usually enough to keep me moving, but right now there are no thoughts that can pull me from this beautiful island and lifestyle. If I didn't already have my next plane ticket purchased I don't know when I'd leave this place! I say this for practically everywhere I visit, but, I can't wait to come back to Gili Air.